Arkivism
Man's surcoat (khalat)
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Man's surcoat (khalat)

late 1800s · Silk: embroidery, cross-stitch

From the collection of Cleveland Museum of Art. Free to download, adapt and use — no permission needed.

About this work

Prestigious men’s surcoats embellished with designs such as this dramatic decoration in cross-stitch were among the most elaborate silk-thread embroidered garments in Central Asia. In a flamboyant style, large palmettes framed by split palmette leaves dominate with quartered rosettes and smaller flora on a brilliant yellow ground. Foliate vines enhance the edge along the front center opening, hemline, and cuffs. It is lined with an ikat of cypress trees and finger-looped trim. The style and technique represent professional work from Shahr-i Sabz, south of Samarkand. The pattern was drawn on the cotton ground cloth of the surcoat, then disassembled for stitching, and finally reassembled—revealed by severed and misaligned motifs plus mismatched colors.

Cleveland Museum of Art’s own description
Credit lineMan's surcoat (khalat), late 1800s. Uzbekistan, Shahr-i Sabz. Silk: embroidery, cross-stitch; overall: 150 x 218.4 cm (59 1/16 x 86 in.). The Cleveland Museum of Art, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. J. H. Wade, 1916.1412

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